London Fashion Week For Autumn/winter 2010

frumpy to funky’s London based Personal Stylist, Karen Grace, comments on a few of the catwalk shows at London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010

PROPHETIK “Southern Shores” catwalk show.Designer JEFF GARNER

Showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout 19Feb10

Tennessee based Prophetik kicked off the LFW catwalk shows at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Freemason’s Hall, Covent Garden.  And what a kick off!!!

At the beginning we are lulled in to thinking of a carefree southern country theme when violinist Anna Cwad starts playing toe tapping music, with ex-Paramore Jason Bynum joining her on guitar. Then the band Man Raze shatters this illusion with their fusion of punk and pop rock. Not surprising as their drummer is ex-Sex Pistols Paul Cook and their vocals/lead guitar is ex-Def Leppard Phil Collen. And let’s not forget their bass guitarist Simon Laffy from Brit glam rock act band Girl.

With Man Raze raising the tempo, the show began for ethical designer Jeff Garner’s  A/W10 collection titled “Southern Shores”. His inspiration came from the American Civil War and sees hope and romance alongside strife and uncertainty.

Main colour palette in true Civil War colours were blues, greys with a touch of red.

The menswear saw layering and serious looking ¾ length coats, waistcoats, vintage buttons, riding boots and peace silk neckties.

For the women, the designs ranged from jodhpurs, ripped leggings, military jackets and capes to full on Little House on the Prairie style dresses. In-between were mini dresses and long flowing dresses both teamed with flat heeled riding boots.

At the end of the show, the music mellowed as Jeff Garner appeared looking the part of the Southern gent taking a stroll with his Southern belle in her striking long red velvet bustier dress.

Garner’s collection is proof that no fashion look has to be harmed in the making of ethical clothing.

Prophetik is a sustainable men’s and womenswear label using environmentally friendly materials such as organic cottons, hemp, flax, Greenspun (recycled bottles) and organic pigment dyes. One of their signature dresses “the Elle” is made from silk and organic cotton that elephants have painted in collaboration with the AEACP (Asian Elephant Art Conservation Project), which helps to raise funds for an elephant sanctuary in Thailand.”

ORLA KIELY presentation -TUESDAYS CHILD AUTUMN/WINTER 2010

presenting at the Portico Rooms, Somerset House 19Feb10

The stage for Orla Kiely’s presentation was 2 impressive make shift rooms decorated in the 60′s style with brown and beige designed Orla Kiely wallpaper in the living room and dark & light blue in the bedroom. The furniture was 60′s vintage and a modern retro looking TV showed the collection on screen. Models sat or stood in above the knee dresses and skirts teamed with shoes and mid calf navy socks.

Patterns for the wallpaper and dresses were inspired by Ivon Hutchins’s abstract art and the photography of Erwin Olaf, and captured the essence of falling autumn leaves.

Main colour palette was autumnal – creams instead of whites, various shades of browns, burnt oranges and navy. The obligatory grey and black could be seen on some pieces.

Fabrics used were mohair and silk crepe teamed with traditional checked wool and wool jacquard,

The models wore their hair in a serious bun and makeup was kept simple, providing a good contrast to the cute collars and fun update of the 60′s retro style.

LAKOBUKIA “Emotions” catwalk show

Showing at Fashion Mavericks, the Strand Palace Hotel 20Feb10

With her A/W10 collection titled “Emotions” Lako Bukia wanted to show both positive kind and dark bad emotions through fabric, shape and colour.

The main colour palette is black for the darker side and white for the lighter side of emotions. A few cream pieces appear to show that not everything is black and white.

Fabrics used are light soft flowing chiffon, a stiffer cotton silk and wool.

Geometric shapes are seen on collars, and by way of diagonal zips. The zips are also used as a bridge to join together the stiffer fabrics with the softer fabrics. Some pieces are obvious with the contrast between the hard and soft fabrics. On others the contrast can only be seen once the zip has been undone and then only revealing the hidden soft silk fabric underneath.  Zips on shoulders and sides allow the wearer the flexibility of changing her silhouette – whenever the mood takes her.

Lako’s shoes look striking in black or white soft leather with triangular heels. She explains the triangle is a more gothic shape and gives a harder emotional contrast to the softness of the leather.

Not surprisingly her favourite piece is the long flowing chiffon pleated dress in white which is teamed with a little sharp cotton silk back to front cape. The cape has a high collar with long geometric lapels which represent the bad emotion. Once the cape is removed, the dress is free of restrictions and can float on just the good emotions.

Lako Bukia, beginning fashion designer, was born on October 4, 1987 in the city of Tbilisi, capital of Georgia. After graduating from School No.58 in Tbilisi, she was immediately offered a place at the A. Kutateladze Tbilisi State Academy of Art, where she did her BA in Fashion Design and Textiles.

SADO “Geometric Glamour” catwalk show.Designer CARLOTTA GHERZI

Showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout 20 Feb 10

The young designer for the Sado label is Russian born Carlotta Gherzi (of Italian parents) who brings a modern elegant edge to the label.

The latest collection had great styles which could be worn by real women and not just catwalk models. The main colour palette was black with blue and pillar box red.

Silks dominated the tops, dresses and even leggings which brought out the vividness of both the blue and red.

“Geometrical glamour” is the title of this autumn/winter 2010 collection – this was shown in the silk leggings, tops and dresses which were all pleated in horizontal tiers giving texture and depth.

Black knits wear glamorous with glitter woven in to produce wide sparkly horizontal bands

Silver and red brocade made an appearance for the evening dresses. Particularly loved the strapless silver brocade maxi dress.

SADO’s signature is stylish and classical – this season’s collection did not disappoint.

DOII PARIS “Walk in the Forest” catwalk show

Showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout 21Feb10

This was Korean designer Doii Lee’s first catwalk show in London and it didn’t let her down.

The collection titled “Walk in the Forest” was inspired by her favourite Russian fairytale “Baba Yaga” In this fairytale a wicked stepmother sends her lovely step daughter in to the forest to visit her aunt,Baba Yaga, the witch.

In Doii’s walk in the forest story, she passes through an intoxicating rose maze. Copper haired models wore layered chiffon dresses and glittering sequined dresses – all in the designer’s exclusive illustrated print of large pinkish red roses. Red patent high heeled shoes with patterned fabric tied around the ankles in large bows matched the vividness of the designs. White faux fur trims and linings added softness to some of the stiffer sequined fabrics.  The first outfit on the catwalk immediately caught our attention – long straight chiffon dress with a kick flare hem, draped with a long trailing shawl covered in the sequined rose pattern and lined with white faux fur.

“A dove guides her along the right path” – the digital prints now were of flying white doves on orange/peach light chiffon or heavily sequined fabric. The short belted double breasted coat covered in sequins on large bold doves looked spectacular with its contrasting print of blues and creams on the lapels. The dove print on the long and short chiffon dresses were more stoned down due to their smaller scale.

“A garden full of glorious sunny memories” Main colour palette was cream with a touch of blue, green and pink. The print of potted plants was hazy as if faded by the sun. Here we saw a loose fitting sequined egg-shaped coat with a sexy kick at the bottom and cuff.  The contrasting print on the collar of polka dots added to the glamour.

The story and walk becomes darker, she is in turmoil –mid greys or rich browns are added to the mix. The print is busier and again vivid. The patent shoes colour changes from carefree red to serious black, but still with the patterned fabric tied around the ankle. Here we saw a plain short mid grey double breasted wool coat contrasting perfectly with its brightly patterned lapels, tie belt, cuff bands and buttons.

“Her heart sank”- black and grey dominate and the designer’s prints are of lace and netting. Black lace features on the sequined evening dresses, black fur on the coats. Another gorgeous coat (you can see a pattern emerging here – I’m loving the coats!) this time in black with a touch of white and grey. Egg-shaped, black fur collar and that sexy kick at the bottom and cuff. Slouchy black and grey zipped fur leg warmers over the black patent shoes made a luxurious touch. The silver grey lace print teamed with billowing black lace bishop sleeves made a simple egg shaped mini dress a knock out cocktail dress. And the elbow length black lace puffed sleeves and tiered lace high yoke and hem of another silver grey print mini dress gave an Edwardian vintage look.

“But she knew she was a protected one” – the colours here were pale gold and black. Here we saw a sequined gold and black patterned trench coat with plain light grey lapels, tie belt and pockets. A short sequined gold and black patterned dress was given the 20′s vintage look with a drop waist and a wide band of scalloped gold lace around the hem.

“My skeleton friend is always with me” – again black and grey dominated for the new print of lace skulls.  Here we saw a luxurious knee-length fur wrap coat with silver grey fur wraps and a touch of sequined skull prints; and a plain mid grey mini wrap wool coat adorned with the sequined skull print on the pockets, cuffs, belt and partial front with contrasting polka dot collar and trimming.

“Then the goat queen of the forest is on her side” – honey blonde models came out wearing prints of the goat queen in creams, white, soft browns with a touch of light blue. A padded egg-shaped coat, plain but for the print and teamed with silver grey fur leg warmers. Other outfits lined or trimmed with white faux fur gave a Cossack appearance.

“Divine roses blossom along the dark path of the forest “- Proving anything can look glamorous, a duffle style coat was given the luxury make over with a sequined print of roses along the path of the  green forest, lining and trims of light grey faux fur and with the hem longer at the back.

Chiffon dresses were long and short, some with a few of the signature sequins, some decorated with small hanging hearts down the back and some with their hems longer at the back. All were colourful and patterned.

Dresses in heavier fabrics were completely embellished in sequins making Doii’s print designs even more dazzling.

My favourites were the coats: all statement pieces proving you don’t have to wait to take your coat off before making an entrance.

Doii states that the lady who wears Doii Paris becomes a diva. The last model came out in a black sequined coat and large hat with fringes so long they reached her shoulders.  Not representing the end of the story but in true diva style, this piece wanted to take centre stage.

CLEMENTS RIBEIRO presentation

HAUTE BOHEMIAN AUTUMN/WINTER 2010

Presenting at the Portico Room, Somerset House 21Feb10

The style may be bohemian for the husband and wife design duo’s (Suzanne Clements & Inacio Ribeiro) latest collection, but this is bohemian with decadent glamour. They chose to look back to the 70′s around the time when Yves Saint Laurent created his Russian collection

The footwear was to die for – all embellished with sequin patterns. My favourites were the long boots in soft leather slightly slouchy and gathered at the top.

Sequins also adorned dresses, trousers and cardigans along with crystals.

The collection was divided in to definite sections:

A more masculine tailored section – main colour palette charcoal grey, black and dark plum.

Oversized knits were embellished but in a monochrome tone to create understated classical glamour.

The feminine section showed silk dresses, skirts and tops in paisley and marble effect swirl prints.

One dress and trousers in pale gilded jacquard and cardigans embellished with sequin patterns or bejewelled motifs.  The colours were more muted in shades of greens, gold, mustard, light browns and taupe.

The more opulent section showed the heavier brocade for jackets, skirts and coats trimmed with sequins. Main colour palette was black and midnight blue. Nice touch with the leather gloves trimmed with sequins.

This collection shows opulent luxury does not have to be just restricted to eveningwear.

FUTURE CLASSICS presentation. Designer JULIE WILKINS

CUT & PASTE AUTUMN/WINTER 2010

Presenting at the Portico Room, Somerset House 21Feb10

Although advertised as a presentation, designer Julie Wilkins presentation of her label’s Future Classics A/W 10 collection was more like a mini catwalk show.  The benches were set out so the models could walk down in between them – so everyone had a front row view!

The inspiration for this collection was:  ”Cut and paste; the written word and renaissance craft (wo)manship.”

Main colour palette was neutrals and black (what else for classics) with a splash of pinks and oranges to brighten the collection.

Lots of long knits with draped hoods, trousers and leggings. Especially loved the denim print leggings. Plainer leggings in black or grey were given a more interesting look with a row of buttons sewn down the front.

Fur covered just the sleeves and hats giving a more playful look.

Long black satin fingerless gloves reaching above the elbow looked great with the layered chiffon LBDs.

This collection is for the woman who likes soft tailoring and knitwear but wants a little design twist to her classical look.

For help on personal shopping in London and image consultancy visit frumpy to funky’s website http://www.frumpytofunky.com or email Karen on contact@frumpytofunky.com

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